27/06/2018

by Marco Gemelli, ph. Lido Vannucchi

His cuisine, an outcome of research and analysis

It is said that nobody is a prophet in their homeland. And yet Filippo di Bartola –owner of the restaurant Filippo MUD and the adjoining cocktail bar in the historic centre of Pietrasanta – has found, right there in the “little Athens” of Versilia, someone able to offer a contemporary cuisine, trendy and refined, going beyond its purely gastronomical aspect. Where there once was a garage and then an art gallery, Filippo Di Bartola created both a cocktail bar entrusted to the young barman and mixologist Thomas Cecere and a restaurant, which, in these last few months, has become the domain of the young chef from Pietrasanta Diego Poli, born 1988. Seating about 50 people in all, the new wave in the kitchen has been trusted to the hands of a pastry chef, born in Pietrasanta, loaned to cookery. It is highly unlikely that this loan will be paid back, consigning Diego permanently to the ranks of a chef. He was the one who, in accordance with Filippo’s philosophy and Tano Pisano’s artist consultancy, came up with the idea of a menu organized as a sort of “vote of confidence” working around 5 raw materials and the chef’s consequent ability to prepare several dishes with those bases: a mark which is a challenge both for those in the kitchen and for the customer who is already well accustomed to surprise effects. On the other hand, those not so keen on experimenting can turn to the more reassuring “a la carte”. Often, the final phase of the serving does not take place in the kitchen but directly at the table, where Palagiaccio butter is served in three different flavours: salt, rosemary, cocoa beans. Amongst Diego Poli’s creations, there is Lamb Agnolotto. Its filling is made from all the cuts of lamb cooked for 12 hours with onions and herbs. The meat is then shredded and the fresh egg pasta is sautéed with the fond made from the bones. The dish is served with EVO oil blended with bay berries, pesto made from almonds from Noto. Diego’s cuisine is a challenge to his customers’ senses enticing them to constantly recall flavours, fragrances, shapes, unusual combinations and recycled raw materials. The merit for this formula – innovative, but not so much as to go above board – is Filippo’s, who when travelling around Italy, learnt the tricks of the trade and picked up those small secrets which render a restaurant unique. Having all these presumptions, notwithstanding that the historic centre of Pietrasanta already has over thirty facilities, Filippo Di Bartola’s eatery even this year runs to become one of the “must” places both for the regulars and the tourists. And in the meantime, celebrating the 10 years of the “Brigata di Filippo”, here are the historic dishes from the other eatery by Filippo: meat balls, roast beef, “tordelli” and so on.

Filippo MUD
via Padre Eugenio Barsanti, 45
Pietrasanta (Pi)
Tel. 39 0584 70010

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